First impressions of the Comoros

by Bronwen Daniel

In February this year, I waved goodbye to the snow-covered British Isles to take up the position of Field Biologist for the ECDD project (run by Bristol Conservation and Science Foundation in partnership with Durrell) in the tropical Comoro Islands.

Having previously worked on research projects in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania and Madagascar, I’d experienced a range of African landscapes but imagined volcanic islands in the middle of the Indian Ocean between Mozambique and Madagascar to be something a bit different. My first view of Anjouan, the second largest of the islands and my home for the next year and a half, was from the window of a tiny 12-seater plane. It did not disappoint. I took in steep-sided green mountains cut through with deep ravines, plunging down to a sparkling blue sea, and couldn’t wait to get out exploring.

From the ground the island is extremely beautiful and the people welcoming and smiling. Children run after you wherever you go shouting “bonjour mzungu” (hello foreigner). However, close inspection reveals poverty, a lack of infrastructure and serious environmental problems. One of the most shocking scenes meeting the visitor is cattle grazing on the mounds of rubbish clogging up the streams and coastline of the capital, Mutsamudu.

Cattle sifting through rubbish on the seafront

On arrival I was whisked up to the ECCD office where I was greeted by the friendly and enthusiastic team of 15 Comorians and four (now five) ex-pats. I’m working within the ecological research and monitoring team which runs wet and dry season surveys of biodiversity on the three islands of the Comoros as well as carrying out research into species of particular interest in terms of conservation. I joined the team towards the end of wet season data collection and didn’t waste any time getting out in the field with Ishaka, Amelaïd and Daniel, the intrepid ecological technicians.

ECDD ecological team: Amelaid, Katie, Daniel, Bronwen, Ishaka (left to right)

Fieldwork involves an afternoon trek up the steep slopes to reach the forest ready for night surveys of nocturnal reptiles and the Critically Endangered Anjouan scops owl. We pitch our tents wherever we can find some flat(ish) land – not easy at the top of a mountain - and the following morning we get up just before dawn to survey birds when they’re the most active. After a quick breakfast we’re scrambling back down, searching for butterflies and reptiles on the way.

Waterfall at Nkozini.

Scaling the mountains is tough to say the least (I was barely able to walk after my first outing), but exploring the forests and spotting Comorian wildlife is fascinating. I’ve been lucky enough to see both the massive Livingstone fruit bats, and the scops owl - a very rare sight during the day. Unfortunately it was camera shy and wouldn’t turn its head for a photo.

A camera shy Anjouan scops owl.

Aside from the surveying I’ve been getting involved in some of the community aspects of the project’s work such as participatory landscape mapping, and learning about the agricultural support the project offers rural Comorians. Over the next few months we’re going to be hard at work analysing survey data to identify important areas for conservation and produce species distribution models, working closely with the Durrell team in Madagascar.

Outside of work there’s been plenty to keep me occupied and I’ve been enjoying getting settled in. I’ve found a flat with a fantastic panoramic view over the town, been shopping in the medina and the market, relaxing on the beach, snorkelling, listening to local music, and experiencing Comorian night life. The next challenge is to learn Comorian so I can join in the jokes.